Quick Change Oil Services

[Bubalouie]

good to know UV but as stated can NOT be done at residence.......

[Poindexter]

Almost immediately after I had my cooling system flushed at one of these places my 10 year old Chevy's heater coil began leaking. I thought at the time that they may have spilled some of the fluid so the smell would go away after it had burned off but no such luck. So I'm due for an incredibly expensive repair bill.

I'm pretty green when it comes to this stuff but I do know most cooling systems have a consistent pressure which is low compared to the pressure they use to flush it out. So could my leak be due to their process? Does any other shop use a different process?

I called the place I went to and they said that while they do hook up a cooling system pump that forces coolant through the engine, it utilizes your own cooling pump to force it out. In other words they say the pressure in the cooling system which is typically about 15 psi does not increase when they flush. I guess it was just a coincidence.

[Impulse_rs]

I called the place I went to and they said that while they do hook up a cooling system pump that forces coolant through the engine, it utilizes your own cooling pump to force it out. In other words they say the pressure in the cooling system which is typically about 15 psi does not increase when they flush. I guess it was just a coincidence.

This is true and not true. The older coolant exchangers just tap into a rad hose closest to the thermostat. As the thermostat opens it pushes the old coolant into a used holding tank and pushes new coolant in... exchanging exactly what is taken out. This is an awesome system! This method is done while the engine is hot only and while the engine is running to use your water pump as.. the pump

The newer systems lube shops find more convenient are a reversed system. You do this while the engine is cold/warm/hot and vehicle turned off. You hook up the same as the system above, but it uses compressed air to flush the system instead of the vehicle cooling system. This is more more efficient for the shop as it takes 5 minutes instead of 35mins-plus. Since this is a reversed system, it runs the coolant backwards through the system using compressed air to "open the thermostat" I do find this system much more convenient but both systems do the exact same job. These machines have a factory preset value that does not reach "much" above a vehicles normal operating pressure. If you try and "crank the pressure" the machine will actually turn on a bypss valve and do nothing at all. More/less... to save your vehicle if a *bleep* is using the machine.

But... this all being said. The purpose of flushing coolant aside from the natural dirt and rust particles is green coolant actually has a functional PH value to it. If it lowers too much it becomes acidity (like a pool, hence the chemicles) and will head your water pump, heater core, head gaskets!!! Tho it still looks green, be sure to check your PH (any pool place) and if it is low, CHANGE IT!

If you have long-life (red, orange, or blue i think they got now) It actually solidifys and turns to a jelly. very very hard to remove this "jell" from your engine and cooling system. If you notice this happening, change your coolant.

Sometimes a heater core, radiator or water pump is "held together" with "crap" or rust from the cooling system. Once flushed the particles come out and cause a leak. This is not a fault with the shop or mechanic working on your vehicle but instead a fault of your own from lack of maintenance.

The issue with mechanics shops, is they DO NOT check PH values of coolant. They wait for it to go bad and cause a problem so they CAN MAKE MONEY. Lube shops make their money doing maintenance before it breaks. Two different scenarios.

[Ken7]

What started me on this is obvious.

I did forwarded a letter of displeasure to the owner of the Franchise. Sadly not even a return message to contact or stop by.

Kelowna, you rock.

Is Kelowna large enough to continue to treat customers this way?

How many people tell you about a friend who was overly impressed about service or a purchase?
How many people tell you about how upset a friend or themselves were about a purchase or a service?

I'll continue supporting him as will every other person I talk to about the issues I had.
.......

[Poindexter]

It's odd that in this day and age a letter has the impact it does but for some reason if you want a problem resolved - write head office a letter.

This is true and not true. The older coolant exchangers just tap into a rad hose closest to the thermostat. As the thermostat opens it pushes the old coolant into a used holding tank and pushes new coolant in... exchanging exactly what is taken out. This is an awesome system! This method is done while the engine is hot only and while the engine is running to use your water pump as.. the pump

The newer systems lube shops find more convenient are a reversed system. You do this while the engine is cold/warm/hot and vehicle turned off. You hook up the same as the system above, but it uses compressed air to flush the system instead of the vehicle cooling system. This is more more efficient for the shop as it takes 5 minutes instead of 35mins-plus. Since this is a reversed system, it runs the coolant backwards through the system using compressed air to "open the thermostat" I do find this system much more convenient but both systems do the exact same job. These machines have a factory preset value that does not reach "much" above a vehicles normal operating pressure. If you try and "crank the pressure" the machine will actually turn on a bypss valve and do nothing at all. More/less... to save your vehicle if a *bleep* is using the machine.

But... this all being said. The purpose of flushing coolant aside from the natural dirt and rust particles is green coolant actually has a functional PH value to it. If it lowers too much it becomes acidity (like a pool, hence the chemicles) and will head your water pump, heater core, head gaskets!!! Tho it still looks green, be sure to check your PH (any pool place) and if it is low, CHANGE IT!

If you have long-life (red, orange, or blue i think they got now) It actually solidifys and turns to a jelly. very very hard to remove this "jell" from your engine and cooling system. If you notice this happening, change your coolant.

Sometimes a heater core, radiator or water pump is "held together" with "crap" or rust from the cooling system. Once flushed the particles come out and cause a leak. This is not a fault with the shop or mechanic working on your vehicle but instead a fault of your own from lack of maintenance.

The issue with mechanics shops, is they DO NOT check PH values of coolant. They wait for it to go bad and cause a problem so they CAN MAKE MONEY. Lube shops make their money doing maintenance before it breaks. Two different scenarios.

Thanks impulse, appreciate the information. Sucks that I only have myself to blame. My truck just went over 100K this year so I didn't think it was that bad but obviously 10 years is too long to go without checking coolant ph levels.

[Ken7]

"Poindexter"It's odd that in this day and age a letter has the impact it does but for some reason if you want a problem resolved - write head office a letter.

It is sad. As you suggested I had forwarded a letter to the Head office in charge of Franchises.
They replied only to advise me that they do not own the stores.

Well, thanks but I was fully aware of what a franchise is. They Shell seemed to be very unconcerned!

[underscore]

Thanks impulse, appreciate the information. Sucks that I only have myself to blame. My truck just went over 100K this year so I didn't think it was that bad but obviously 10 years is too long to go without checking coolant ph levels.

You went 10 years without changing your coolant?

[Poindexter]

[
You went 10 years without changing your coolant?

I think I had a false sense of security given the low miles. My warrenty was over before I reached 50,000 so all my maintenance has been done at these Quick shops. I had a bad experience when I was 16, trying to change my own oil I drained the transmition fluid instead and almost destroyed my car.

I can laugh now, kinda, but I decided that day never to do my own car maintance. Guess reading the manual would hurt.

My wife's car is 7 years old and has just over 50,000 km, we just read the manual and says to change at 5 years or 120,000km. Ooops, so the years part of that matter eh?

[Impulse_rs]

Poindexter. Glad you learned something. Its just these simple little things that can make a vehicle last longer. Those useless fuel additives they try and upsell actually arent so useless... but infact over priced! I do recomend to add a FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (not just an injector cleaner, yes they are different) To clean out your in-tank fuel filter if you have one, but also to lubricate your fuel pump! The pump does not see any lubrication... ever. For the $10 bottle once a year its just another bit of insurance instead. Transmission fluid is also important to check. You usually check it with the vehicle running and in park (unless you drive chrysler) Just make sure it is a nice cherry red and not overly dark. I like to smell it. Good fluid smells remotely sweet, old fluid is a darker red/light brown and burnt fluid smells... burnt and can look anything other than red. A good way to compare is pull your dipstick and put a few drops on a white piece of paper than add a few drops of brand new fluid beside the first drops. Compare... use judgement.

Coming up to 100,000km's... so I'm assuming 5 years old. This is a good time to lube all of your doors, make sure fuel filter has been replaced within the last year, the battery is good for an average of 7 years, and see if your manual calls for a transmission service as noted above. Your powersteering may also be due.. but please please do not pay more than $50 to service your powersteering. It costs about $5 to do it. I do recomend the dealer for this service as they are priced accordingly. Or.. use a turkey baster and do it yourself

[asandre]

Was taking my car to one of these places for roughly 2 years after buying my car (used), they were the only people to have ever touched the drain plug. One day sunddenly I am told that my plug is stripped and I need to have $80 worth of work done to fix it. After explaining to them how it is only possible for them to have ruinined my drain pan nothing was done and emails were not retunred. I now go to a shop that deals strictly with european cars, excellent service everytime!

[dirtybiker]

use a turkey baster and do it yourself

Not only true but, when put into words, funny, all good info.

Pass the keybourd cleaner please..

[Relentless]

It's perfectly fine for some of the oil to remain, the only benefit you get from draining a bit more of the oil is slightly more time between changes, nothing else.
Not draining all the oil is like showering and then putting on your old underwear, it will work, but it's not the best idea!


Again, this is fine, unless you leave it draining for ages like you seem to do, there will still be a thin layer of oil over everything. Starting up an engine without oil pressure is not fine, it causes wear!



Both of these are untrue, any decent place buys warranty approved (ie OEM or better) filters and uses the same oil you would buy yourself, but they order it in bulk for obvious reasons. Quick lube places use bulk warranty approved oil allright, but it's still the bottom of the barrel cheapest stuff around, it breaks down faster then most.



What you're buying isn't actually full synthetic, and even if it was, it's a complete waste on everything but a high end performance car that is actually using its performance. "Synthetic" oils tend to contain smaller particles as well, leading to increased leaking and burning in an engine that may be totally fine with normal oils.
100% Synthetic is full Synthetic, and Synthetic oil has particles of exactly the same size, but does not contain the parafin wax that conventional oils do.


By law any place that sells oil must take it back.

Not true! Oil recycle depots are not everywhere, and I don't think you would take back used oil to a parts or department store.

[underscore]

It's perfectly fine for some of the oil to remain, the only benefit you get from draining a bit more of the oil is slightly more time between changes, nothing else.
Not draining all the oil is like showering and then putting on your old underwear, it will work, but it's not the best idea!


Again, this is fine, unless you leave it draining for ages like you seem to do, there will still be a thin layer of oil over everything. Starting up an engine without oil pressure is not fine, it causes wear!



Both of these are untrue, any decent place buys warranty approved (ie OEM or better) filters and uses the same oil you would buy yourself, but they order it in bulk for obvious reasons. Quick lube places use bulk warranty approved oil allright, but it's still the bottom of the barrel cheapest stuff around, it breaks down faster then most.



What you're buying isn't actually full synthetic, and even if it was, it's a complete waste on everything but a high end performance car that is actually using its performance. "Synthetic" oils tend to contain smaller particles as well, leading to increased leaking and burning in an engine that may be totally fine with normal oils.
100% Synthetic is full Synthetic, and Synthetic oil has particles of exactly the same size, but does not contain the parafin wax that conventional oils do.


By law any place that sells oil must take it back.
Not true! Oil recycle depots are not everywhere, and I don't think you would take back used oil to a parts or department store.

Everything you just said is completely incorrect. Especially regarding synthetic oils, you ARE NOT buying truly synthetic oil. Do some research.

[underscore]

Ooops, so the years part of that matter eh?

A lot of people don't know that about automotive fluids. They do have a lifespan, and every if you're not driving much they will age and wear out after a certain period of time. They're basically the same as a new cars warranty - good for X years or Y km.

[politico35]

I have in the past...but I won't anymore.

When I have used these drive thru lube places in the past, they seem to all play the same game. Sign says "29.99"...until you drive in....then they show you your "options". The "options" list on the clip board never has that "29.99". Then the games begin, where one has to ask for the advertised price..."oh that doesn't apply to your vehicle because it takes a different kind of oil filter"..when they realize I know that it doesn't....they eventually "give me a deal" at the "29.99". I've had this happen a few times now...so I just don't bother going to these places anymore, and playing their little games. I find the process tiring, having to fight for the advertised price...having to tell them I don't need much else other than the oil change.... as my car only has 37000 km on it etc....I'll stick with the dealer who charges a fair price for an oil change and get my warranty work done at the same time. The time I've tried to save getting the oil change at one of these places as opposed to going to the dealer has been outweighed by the headache enduring the sales pitch.