Pump

[rustled]

Pretty recent info on how to prevent ethanol damage here:
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/protect-yourself-ethanol-is-killing-your-carburetor/

I've not had a carburetor in a vehicle for 15 years. Both of our vehicles are newer than 2007, and have yellow gas caps that specifically state "Gasoline / E85" on them. That article that you linked to calls out fuel-injected vehicles as having components compatible with ethanol.

This is true, but most of our family (grown kids, etc.) have older vehicles, so understanding this is important to us, and perhaps other readers here are in a similar situation.

The article also mentions proper storage to prevent separation, which is rather important for anyone who has a vehicle they use occasionally or seasonally. (I expect separated fuel will take the pump out pretty quickly, even if the rest of your system is ethanol-safe, although I certainly don't claim to be any kind of authority on that.)

And there are also small engines to consider. Bumped into a fellow last summer at a pump in the States who was on a furious rant about how ethanol had destroyed one of his small engines, so he absolutely refuses to put it in anything he owns. I don't know that we need to get all that intense about it, but we ought to be aware and take the proper precautions to make sure we're not destroying our equipment.

[rustled]

Yep, but does the article go on to tell you about the glazing of the cyl walls after break in.

It does. Here's what it says:

According to one honing equipment manufacturer’s guidelines, the RMAX and RZ numbers should be about 10 times the RA number for a properly honed finish. If the RMAX or RZ numbers are less than one seventh the RA number, the surface is “glazed” and won’t retain oil properly. If RMAX or RZ is more than 12 times the RA number, the surface has too many deep scratches.

Seems to me that oil's necessary not just during the break-in period, but beyond it. Although I don't know everything, and could be wrong about that. But the point is: it's easy enough for those of us who are interested in broadening our knowledge and understanding to find this information, instead of posting as though we already know all there is to know. As you say:

1/2 truths are no better than lies.

and I certainly agree with you there.
I also agree with this:

It would appear that a few posters are more concerned with making negative comments designed to belittle either the last poster, or the entire topic. Some people even post unrelated stuff, because they (like children) must try to get attention.
We must ask how is it, that our society, which now has vast information available on many subjects, giving myriad opportunities for learning and passing on real knowledge, allows dullards to have sway?

And yet you see fit to post this:

How to highjack a thread by the raging ranting righturds.

Of course you hone the cylinder walls, and how long does it take to glaze (polish) the walls, once running.

Ethanol is neither the problem or the answer twitts, the answer is electric, for cars and bio diesel for trucks.
Bunch of people reading half a line and jumping to a half wit conclusion.

We must ask, how do posts like that one further intelligent, rational discussion?

[I Think]

*removed*

[WhenWhatWho]

My last word on this...

There are probably more myths and misunderstandings about bore glazing than there are about anodes, and that is a

very large number! This article is intended to explain the main reasons for the problem and to eliminate some of the suggested cures. When a modern engine is built, the cylinder bores are honed, using a diamond abrasive. The intention is to produce a crosshatch appearance with scratches from both directions at about 22 degrees from the horizontal.


The microscopic surface roughness at this stage is a series of peaks and troughs, and in the past the engine was assembled at this stage. Part of the running in process was to wear off the peaks, to generate the desired 'plateau' finish. Modern practice is to machine the plateau finish, largely eliminating the need for running in. The engine delivers good compression right away, there is no blue smoke in the exhaust, emissions and oil consumption are reduced, and the rings last longer because they have not had to wear to conform to the bores. The plateau finish is essential to ensure reliable operation of an engine. In service the troughs contain the oil that lubricates the piston rings as they pass across the cylinder. If the troughs are destroyed the piston rings will not be lubricated, causing high temperature, blow-by and rapid wear. Troughs may be lost by one of two means - either they can be filled with a lacquer or varnish, or the surrounding bore can be worn away. These two mechanisms are known as bore glazing and bore polishing. Clearly they are not the same thing.


https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/P ... azing.aspx

[twobits]

I am not even a big ethanol/methanol fan, tho it is better than gasoline. Used to be that indy cars ran on straight ethanol.

I have rebuilt engines, have you?

Wow. Are you seriously gonna hang your hat on that? Indy car engines are good for 1000 miles tops. That would include break in, test laps, and one 500 mile race before it's yanked and totally rebuilt if not scrapped.
Hardly a positive for ethanol burning engines.
My experience with ethanol blends is that 10% ethanol blend corresponds to a 10% drop in mileage. Same price. Less distance per tank. 10% more expensive to operate.