Castanet

Looking to get my near flat (1.5 over 12) roof redone this summer. will need to remove old tar & gravel and lay down fresh torch down. Anyone have any recommendations on who TO use or who NOT to use?????

Thanks in advance!

There are no bad companies in town, just bad crews. Get the right crew it's smooth sailing. Get the wrong guys and you're into a headache. Especially with flat roofing. Flat roofs are a water proof material, which means they must've able to hold standing water. (As opposed to shingles which only need to shed water from top to bottom until it's off roof edge)

My best advice is to get multiple quotes, and to research and gain some product knowledge prior to having salesmen come by. All torch on systems are "two ply" . The first is called the base layer, which acts as a waterproof layer and as a fire protection layer at same time. They need to be either mechanically attached (nails, or plates and screws) or fully adhered to roof deck and walls(self adhered using primers/glued). Never let them torch directly to wood!

The secondary, or "cap" layer, is a granulated roll (picture little rocks/pebble look of shingles) that is fully torched to base roll, which is designed to protect the asphalt from oxidization from the sun. This layer is fully torched to base layer, as base membrane has now fully protected your wood substrate from direct flame.

Two sites that may help are;

Rcabc.org. Roofing contractors assc. Of bc, the assc. Responsible for standards, training, apprenticeship etc. They also have a homeowners page/guide that may help. Although they list contractors associated with them, keep in mind they are an "old boys club" that rejects a lot of good companies for the sake of keeping themselves exclusive (most govt contracts can only be done by rca companies, so they limit competition by excluding new members)

Iko.ca iko industries, most companies in town use these products. Inform yourself, knowledge is power to keep from having the wool pulled over your eyes. Ask the salesmen what product they intend to use, the fastening systems (screws and plates are better than nails, a 180 base is better than 95, etc) compare apples to apples, a Kia is a car, so why is it $20k less than a civic?

Take most reviews with a grain of salt... a bad review may be skewed, that crew responsible may not be around anymore, etc. Ask the salesmen who will be doing your roof, what training they have, etc. Most people don't talk about how good their experience was, but wil *bleep* to anyone around when it goes sideways...

Ask for proof of liability and fire insurance with quote, training certs of crew, etc. Lots of companies run sub contract crews, not always a bad thing as price is usually cheaper. Salary/wages employees tend to be more reliable, but typically cost more as companies have to budget for delays/downtime, as opposed to subcontract companies who can set job price by square foot and be done with it. Sub crews tend to move from company to company, but in the case your job has issues the main company still carries warranty, and will still handle any repairs/issues for length of warranty (typically 10 years, don't accept anything less!)

Anyway, I could go on and on, but if you want more info send me a private message and I'll be happy to help you.

Oh and if you can make it through the summer, try and hold out until winter... torch on is still able to be done in winter months successfully, and you will get a better price than in the middle of summer! Less work available means more competition between companies, which will help you negotiate a better price

Peel and stick roof by IKO . Easy to put on a flat roof . Safer than torch on . No nail holes like shingles

I'd come help with this job if u need a hand . Just did my brothers roof like this over Easter

Jflem, curious to which product you used by iko? They have a few peel and stick roof products...

Armourbond series are self adhered, but still require torches to seal side and end laps.. unless you used the sanded versions, with iko "cold gold" adhesive... even with this route a hot air welder/torch should be used to seal laps, although I have seen guys just use the adhesive as sealant. May work, but I've never applied this way personally

Iko roof-fast is only peel and stick I can think of off the top of my head that requires no torch/welded seams, but it is not a flat roof product! It's acceptable for low slope (2-12 to 4-12), anything lower and it is not warrantable. Not trying to call you out, just curious if you remember what product you used, and congratulations on a job well done if it's holding up!

Was a low slope . Used armour bond flash . As underlay . The roofer my bro hired was less than an expert . Used a roll on glue
. So far it looks great . Time will tell . Far from an expert . It went on easy . They are staying dry

Jflem1983 wrote:Peel and stick roof by IKO . Easy to put on a flat roof . Safer than torch on . No nail holes like shingles

Good stuff but NOT as easy as for the unprepaired . It takes a "knack" to get it right and not get stuck in it when the temp hits 20 degrees .. Had a buddy get stuck in that stuff like he was a fly in fly paper.

After we rescued him and peeled all that stuff of his bare legs , we laughed and LAUGHED ...

You could see all his leg hairs stuck in the adhesive on the "business" side of the membrane...

danmorris wrote:Jflem, curious to which product you used by iko? They have a few peel and stick roof products...

Armourbond series are self adhered, but still require torches to seal side and end laps.. unless you used the sanded versions, with iko "cold gold" adhesive... even with this route a hot air welder/torch should be used to seal laps, although I have seen guys just use the adhesive as sealant. May work, but I've never applied this way personally

Iko roof-fast is only peel and stick I can think of off the top of my head that requires no torch/welded seams, but it is not a flat roof product! It's acceptable for low slope (2-12 to 4-12), anything lower and it is not warrantable. Not trying to call you out, just curious if you remember what product you used, and congratulations on a job well done if it's holding up!

On a 1.5 / 12 pitch , you're better off with at least a two ply torch on system . Good flatheads will torch on the product and trowel all the seems. From the head laps to end laps to any protrusions in the roof like skylights , plumbing vents and AC curbs to drainage scuppers, these joins in the material are where failures are most likely to occur and are better to be welded with a torch and troweled so you can see a minimum of 1/8" of "bleed out" ..( gooey tar like spooge)

In short , a torch on system is the best ..

Laing is good , Flynn is better .. It's gonna cost you but depending on the system you choose , remember that it's going to last at LEAST 30 years IF it's done right.

It's a big up front cost but worth it to get a good system.

Yes 1.5/12 I would do nothing other than full two ply torch on... fast n stick 180 base mechanically attached to roof deck, armourbond flash on walls and parapets, fully torched cap sheet on top of that... armourbond in the field is a big waste of money, and will be a "sticky" situation in the middle of summer!

Jflem, I hope you guys did a granulated ply on top of armourbond.. if it's just exposed base membrane (black top) you will develop scaling and cracking in a few months as the asphalt starts to break down! Not gonna last too many years once that process starts, get it covered before it ends up in the dump and doing it again!

Flynn and Laing are both great companies, but more geared to bigger commercial jobs. Both are RCABC companies, great reputations, but may come at a price. Try and hold out until fall/winter, see if anyone will do repairs needed to see you through until then (lots of companies will discount price of repairs if you sign an agreement for reroof work in future months). Busy time of year, *bleep* weather is pushing schedules back, and prices are at a premium right now! If you can guarantee a company work for November/December when things slow down a bit you might find a significant savings!

Yes 2 coats . Armorbond bottom and shingle like 4 ft rolls for the top . It's been a big improvement so far . Lil bro had leaks galore before . He's screwed on warranty cuz the guy he hired ordered the wrong stuff . We did a good job though of what we had . I really liked the product . Was quite impressed .

Try and hold out until fall/winter, see if anyone will do repairs needed to see you through until then (lots of companies will discount price of repairs if you sign an agreement for reroof work in future months). Busy time of year, *bleep* weather is pushing schedules back, and prices are at a premium right now! If you can guarantee a company work for November/December when things slow down a bit you might find a significant savings

I disagree with this...

While most companies will discount the cost of repairs for guaranteed work in the "off " months , the type of work required doesn't go well with the time of year you suggest it being done for a discount. High humidity and condensation in Nov ,Dec narrows the "window"for optimal conditions for a proper install on materials that require dryness and heat to ensure the best adhesion.

My advice is to not put money into repairs during the "dry " months for a discount to wait when things are slow and put it into the project when conditions are the best suited to it..

But that's just me.

If you need an honest, totally reliable, trustworthy guy, for sure contact MAPierce, for your roofing needs, can't say enough GOOD things

tesla tiles . save on energy costs

UmmmmmOK yeah....

I'm going to wait until that product has the time to prove itself AND the cost of that material to come down in price so the average homeowner can afford it ..

Then there's the argument on who can install it . A roofer or an electrician ?